I heard Jaco was unsafe, dangerous, and a non-stop party; translation: my kind of place. Although, I seek all the beautiful enlightened things in life; it’s when I am scared shit-less that I feel most alive. Some people find character on Mountain tops and Ocean floors, others in the dark recesses of the night; very [...]
Tags: 420, bus, costa rica, dangerous, Jaco, La Cometa, Mecca, party, Pura Vida, surf, tico
Ever since I was wee-lad I loved a good scar. I guess everyone has their little fetishes in life; for me it’s scars. To a certain degree they symbolize the beauty and perfection of the human body. The more strain and pressure that the human body endures, the stronger and more durable it becomes; a [...]
Tags: , beauty, bones, broken, conquered, gash, hardships, john Bunyan, pain, Paulo Coelho, pictures, quote, quotes, scars, spider bite, story, suffered, surf, surfing, victory, warrior, warrior Manuel of light
Two surfers are at getting ready to paddle out: Surfer one: “Hey, guess what! I got a new longboard for my wife!” Surfer two: “Great trade!!!!” 4 guys are discussing how they get their wives to let them surf every Sunday morning. The first says “Every Saturday night I take my wife out to an [...]
Tags: , dream, funniest, funny, hilarious, humor, joke, jokes, joking, laugh, laughing, laughter, now, surf, surfer, surfer lingo, surfing, wave riding
The following is what I wrote in my moleskin journal right after my second surf lesson. Once you turn in and actually ride the wave before the break, words can’t describe the true feeling of complete awe inspiring Zen; this can only give you an idea of how I felt.
“Today was AMAZING! I felt [...]
Tags: , 70s surf shop, amazing, awe, backwash, break, costa rica, feeling, guru, inspire, inspiring, knowledge, la botella de leche, lessons, mind, ocean, present moment, rush, soul, spectacular, sun, surf, surf school, surfing, tamarindo, teacher, waves, wences, zen
Sometimes I feel like the luckiest man alive. As if some mystical force has chosen me the lucky one amongst all the others. There is a Swedish proverb that says, “Luck never gives; it only lends”. Well, it has been lending me my whole life and the accumulated balance seems astonishing to some; unbelievable to [...]
Tags: , beauty, bikini, body, Brazilian, breathtaking, costa rica, day, features, first, forever, Fortuna, French, goddess, great, heaven, imagination, joy, lesson, lessons, luck, marveled, moments, ocean, Pura Vida, skimpy, striking, sunset, surf, surfing, tamarindo, temptation, the now, time, unbelievable, voluptuous, waves, Witch’s Rock surf camp, zen
