The following is what I wrote in my moleskin journal right after my second surf lesson. Once you turn in and actually ride the wave before the break, words can’t describe the true feeling of complete awe inspiring Zen; this can only give you an idea of how I felt.
“Today was AMAZING! I felt [...]
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Sometimes I feel like the luckiest man alive. As if some mystical force has chosen me the lucky one amongst all the others. There is a Swedish proverb that says, “Luck never gives; it only lends”. Well, it has been lending me my whole life and the accumulated balance seems astonishing to some; unbelievable to [...]
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