The following is what I wrote in my moleskin journal right after my second surf lesson.Once you turn in and actually ride the wave before the break, words can’t describe the true feeling of complete awe inspiring Zen; this can only give you an idea of how I felt.
“Today was AMAZING!I felt the rush of the waves breaking my mind wide open.There is only the present moment in the Ocean; no room for the past or future.All your attention and energy is completely focused.Your senses become alive with the moment.The constant sun warms your skin, the salt removing all the bitter tastes that resided there before: the Ocean testing you with each push, each step, and each paddle forward.And when it finally happens, you pop up and feel at one with the wave; it’s spectacular; it’s grandiose; it’s pure Zen.The mind ceases and the soul begins.”
Although my first surf lesson at Witch’s Rock Surf Camp was amazing, I decided to go with La Botella de Leche Surf School for my second go at it.I heard through the grapevine that Wences, the instructor, was a local legend who could teach you three weeks of surfing in a single day.Wences is known for his magical ability read the incoming waves, a skill that takes years to perfect, getting you right in the sweet spot.This is of course one of the hardest part of surfing; a knowledge only a true Guru can hope to obtain.By the end of our first lesson, I was getting up almost every time, turning in and riding the wave all the way in.The highly recommended Botella de Leche Surf school in Tamarindo which is located in from of the 70’s Surf Shop right on the main drag.
Wences was a true Guru in every sense of the word: a couple of times, I actually saw him get up on the board and ride it right into and over the oncoming waves; a true genius.With every attempt, he would give me little pointers about holding the board in position until my feet were set, getting lower, keeping my arms out for balance, etc.Little by little I got better each time; building more confidence with each wave.Surfing lessons are a must in my opinion.I laughed at all those stubborn people who had too much pride and wanted to learn on their own without any direction.I would see them fail again and again, because they had no idea what they were doing wrong.I found my lesson both inspiring and informative.I don’t think I would have enjoyed surfing as much without some concrete lessons, because it’s all about getting up and actually riding the waves; not being pulled and stretched every which way in the backwash.
