Sometimes I feel like the luckiest man alive. As if some mystical force has chosen me the lucky one amongst all the others. There is a Swedish proverb that says, “Luck never gives; it only lends”. Well, it has been lending me my whole life and the accumulated balance seems astonishing to some; unbelievable to others. I will attribute my first surf lesson to just such an experience: I must thank you Fortuna, Goddess of luck, for your continued blessings. There were a number of different names on the board for surf instructors at the Witches Rock Surf Camp in Tamarindo Costa Rica. I chose Julie for my first lesson. So as I sat in the lobby waiting and anticipating a great day of surfing, this unbelievably hot 18 year old French Goddess walked up to me at said, “Jonathan”. I could barely erase the huge smile that broadened my face. I simply just stared into her eyes with disbelief. Was this actually my surf instructor for the day? “So are you ready for a great day of surf”, she asked. I responded with a definite, “YES, I am”. When it comes to describing the true beauty of a woman; I’m often at a loss. No real words can ever put an accurate description into the readers head. Not any of mine at least. Trying to think of a reason why I feel this way, all that I am able come up with is the following: no piece of art, sunset, picture or anything else on earth has me finding the beauty I see in the opposite sex. So may different shapes, colors, expressions all magnificently amalgamated by god to form each a different, yet perfect, expression of beauty. As she grabbed her board and strutted down to the beach in front of me, wearing the sexiest Brazilian bikini possible (or skimpiest, my brain being on sensory overload it was HARD to tell), I was in complete AWE. I feel the need to attempt the impossible here: such sooth skin permeating a perfectly tanned voluptuous body that would make Jessica Alba jealous. Her long dirty blond hair blowing ever so gently in the wind as the muscular jiggle in her butt bounced side to side. Peaking at my curiosity, there was not a tan line to be scene anywhere, her flat stomach leading to her hour glass shaped hips that could make time stand still. She quickly glanced back with a perfect ten smile indicating; yes I know! Her eyes were filled with Charisma and the striking features of her face leading to young round sun kissed cheeks. A French goddess of perfection that would have any man swoon and quickly give away all the fortune for just one moment in time with her rapped in his arms. So there I was, desperately trying to focus on her instructions while fearing looking like a fool trying to get up on my board for the first time. She would dive into the oncoming waves that were trying as hard as my imagination to strip away those two little pieces of cloth separating temptation from heaven. I could and would like to go on forever about this picture perfect being; but I shall stop the incessant rambling there and continue with my story. Being a natural athlete and accomplished snowboarder, my initial attempts had the Ocean taking my pride away with the high tide. Its no easy thing to learn to surf, a completely different balance is needed on the open water. Eventually, I would get up and stand upon the wave with the surf breaking behind me as Zen filled present being. Crouching down in your stance, the body and mind are overwhelmed with sensations causing the mind to halt and the soul to begin. The sun began to set and leave an orange glow upon the face of the Ocean. I sat up on my board and simply marveled at the experience of it all. She could see, with a sense of pride, the feeling of joy I was experiencing; for I was in the moment of the Now. I moment I wish would’ve lasted forever. I was a surfer for the first time, a dream was checked off by my heart; this wonderful moment would never be forgotten. Yes, it was that absolutely breathtaking. Pura Vida forever! P.S. I took over 800 pictures in my month in Costa Rica. This story was the only one that escaped without being photographed; perhaps for the better. For my imagination will always hold a photo of this day tightly ingrained in my consciousness.
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