Archive for January, 2008

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So what is Guaro you ask? It’s a common myth that Costa Rica doesn’t have a national drink.  In a nation of drinkers as prevalent as this one: of course there had to be a national drink, and what better then local moonshine dressed up in a respectable bottle and sold everywhere.

Costa Ricans love their booze as much as anyone; historically more then most.  I tried to find some related statistics to share with you, but my research came up empty. I can tell you that I met many Costa Ricans or Ticos (as they like to be called), during my stay, and they all had the same thing to say when it came to alcohol.  “Tico’s love to drink; love it.”  Well, I guess that will have to do.  

Many travelers and Tico’s won’t touch the stuff.  Bollocks I say!  I loved it.  Here is how to enjoy it, and get Guaro-oed like we say at the Botella de Leche; the finest hostel in C.R.  Straight up it tastes like a mild ouzo with a rubbing alcohol finish.  For shots, definitely chill it and add some fresh squeezed limes to the shaker; refreshing and cheap.  For cocktails, any juice will do; but a lemon lime juice is the best complement to this moonshine liquor.  Like all moonshines, the effects on the body and mind are like a hot knife through butter; so take it easy at first.  It also tends to linger longer in the system then most other boozes.  I can tell you on many occasions in the morning while trying to get up early to make high tide; I was defiantly still Guaro-oed.  Dizziness and wrenching headache had me climb right back into bed and try again tomorrow; both the surfing and Guaro.                                                        On my third night out in Tamarindo, we had a good group of travelers from the hostel hit the town together.  The idea of doing some shots eventually surfaced; later reports indicating I was the culprit.  So when we asked the bartender what the cheapest shots were; the bartender said with a knowing smile: “Guaro of course, it’s the national drink of Costa Rica”.  Perfect.  As first time Guaro drinkers, soon to be experts, we did them straight up; no ice or limes, in Dixie cups that were three quarters full.  They were a thousand Colones each (two dollars), looking at the shear monstrosity of the shots in front of us; we thought it was a superb value and the next best thing to sliced bread.  What ensued was shear drunken madness.  I won’t attempt to describe it; partially because I don’t remember shit about it.  I will tell you we did have a great night and Guaro became a short of local legend and tradition at the hostel.  The night finished with Kalen and I, my new obliterated buddy, in a heated debate over the book The Power of Now.  It almost ended badly until we both realized what belligerent fools we were when the sun started to rise.  I got a funny facebook message a month later from Kalen that made me laugh my ass off.    “I just wanted to inform you that I’m currently reading the Power of Now. hahaha, hope all is well dude, see ya again sometime soon!”  Apparently on Guaro, Kalen was able to passionately debate the book without ever reading it. LOL  Cheers buddy and Pura Vida forever.                                                                                                                                                 On Guaro the all knowing Wikipedia had this to say. “It is a clear liquor made from sugar cane, and therefore has a slightly sweeter taste than comparable liquors. Guaro is a popular alcoholic drink in Costa Rica, although in many places guaro can refer to almost any liquor. Guaro is made by a distillation process of sugarcane juices, resulting in an alcohol that is clear in color and has a slightly sweet flavor.Sometimes guaro is referred to as a “soft vodka” because it has a lower alcohol content than vodka. In Costa Rica, the government nationalized the manufacturing of Guaro in an effort to quell the clandestine production of liquor. The “Fabrica Nacional de Licores” (National Liquor Factory) was founded for this reason, and currently produces the only legal brand of Guaro, the Guaro Cacique.  Some clandestine liquor production still occurs, but it is seen more as a tradition than a business because as it would be difficult to compete with the nationally produced guaro.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guaro_%28drink%29

tw12

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I remember sitting in my grade six classroom staring out the window dreaming of basketball, star wars, and my grade six crush.   I looked around the classroom and wondered if any of the other kids were actually paying attention to what the teacher was saying.  My wandering imagination has always been more fascinating to me then what most others had to teach.  I would dream and fantasize constantly; paying little attention to the boring or mundane moments in life.   Later on, I would learn this is the blessed curse of writers; a never ending imagination of possible wonders.            

 I didn’t realize I wanted to be a writer till very late in life.  The first piece of literature that broke open a little crack in the doorway was the poem Ulysses by Lord Alfred Tennyson.  It was my grade twelve English class where I heard that inspiring piece for the first time.  Incredibly, it was the first time that any piece of writing had any sort of affect on me.  That moment inspired me to travel to Europe that summer for the first time; and that was simply the best decision I have ever made.            

I grew more in character that summer then I ever had before.  I realized the world was a grand and vast place that I had yet to make my mark upon.  As I traveled, my imagination seemed to stand still while I marveled at all Europe had to offer.  Everything was so fresh and alive to me; I was seeing new things and different horizons.  I took my first little step closer towards experiencing a few fleeting moments of enlightened that summer.                                           

I would return to Europe three years later to find my true self.  I was in Corfu Greece sitting on a rock enjoying the splendor of the brilliant pink sunset.  I made a list of everything I loved and hated about myself.  I looked at it for a long time- and then threw it into the ocean.  Then this absolutely overwhelming feeling of joy invaded my soul, and I wept with tears of joy for the first time in my life.  I was happy to be who I was; and proud of the accomplishments that I had made.  That cry was the best cry of my life: I was forever a changed man.                          

Nothing could hold me back from returning to Europe that next summer.  I needed to go back and sit on that very same rock to figure out what I want to do with my life.  The question I put to myself was simple.  If I could do anything at all, what would make me the happiest?  The answer didn’t come to me at that moment sitting on my rock once again, but when I left Greece on a ferry ride to Italy; the answer came while gazing out at the never ending horizon and sunset before me.  I was listening to Ben Harpers song ‘Give a man a home’ and I finally figure it out.  I wanted to travel the entire world and write about my journey.   That would make me the happiest man I could be.     

I knew that was the answer I was looking for more then I knew anything else on earth.  I traveled up along the coast to arrive in Barcelona a couple of days later; there I received my first meeting with fate.  I arrived in Barcelona very late at night and there wasn’t a bed to be found anywhere.  I stored my backpack in a locker at the train station and headed to the beach to crash.  I awoke miserably that morning, I searched everywhere for 5 hours to find a place to stay; the hot sun was pouring down on me and my heavy backpack was digging deeper and deeper into my shoulder. I had no luck at all.  I was ready to give up and get back on the train, I decided to give it one more try and go back to a hostel that had put me on a waiting list.  Finally, the hostel L’Auberge Palau had only one bed available; I quickly snatched it up.  On my bed was a copy of The Pilgrimage by Paulo Coelho: a story about a sacred journey to Santiago Compostela in Northern Spain to become a new man and leave all the past behind.  I decided it would become part of my journey and I traveled to that majestic place.  In the cathedral of Saint James of Compostela; I felt the undeniable presence of god with me at the moment, and I knew that there was a higher source of power at work here on earth.                                                                                                                                                                                                 

When I returned home I quickly picked up a copy of Paulo Coelho’s famous book The Alchemist.  I realized everything I would ever need to know about listening to my heart and chasing my dreams.  I was the Shepard boy who loved to travel and was seeking his personal treasure by following his dreams.  From that moment on, I dedicated my life to becoming a writer.  It’s my greatest dream and personal legend.  I had finally found what I was looking for; my destiny. Ulysses is still my favorite poem and The Alchemist my favorite book by my favorite writer.  So there it is; the story behind my journey to become a travel writer.     JMH                                                                                                                                                  

P.S. If you’re an editor or publisher, then I probably want to write for you, so drop me a comment below. 

tw12

 

Categories : costa rica, travel
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50 Cents said it best with “All the things they said you shouldn’t do: I did them.” Well, me to 50.  I stood many times in the garden of forbidden fruit tasting each flavor: only then can you decide what fruits are right or wrong for you.  I remember Kerouac boldly stating that the appeal to being a writer was having to live the biggest life possible.  And that has always been the life for me, both for better and worse.  This post contains a tale of drunken debauchery, if this doesn’t appeal to you, stop reading and click on another entry or category. 

So after a 3 hour car ride to Seattle, a 5 hour flight to Houston, a 6 hour delay, another 3 ½ hours to Liberia, a 1 ½ hour shuttle ride to Tamarindo; I finally arrived exhausted and sweaty.  Most travelers would rather relax and take it easy on a night like this, but I’m not most travelers.  I went harder on my first night in Costa Rica then I have in years.  Because this night was the start of an important celebration for me; it was the beginning of a new dream; the dream of Costa Rica.   

My new buddy Sage and I decided to go to Babylon for our first night.  I bought two local Imperial beers to begin with, but to my surprise, Sage didn’t drink; so I was double fisted from the very beginning.  It was Reggae night at Babylon and the DJ was bumping out fresh beats as the crowd filled in.  Babylon was an old dingy bar that had taken it’s beating over time; it had both an inside and outside part to it, with a stage and half pipe at the back.  The crowd was half tico and half gringo, which suited me just fine.  The Imperials went down like smooth water to dehydrated half dead desert beast.  The excitement of it all had caution thrown to the wind within the first hour.  Before long I was bopping my head to the sounds echoing from of the DJ booth.

I consider myself to be a seasoned traveler who always tries to maintain certain rules when abroad.  I kept none of them this evening.  Sage eventually left me to go back to the hostel; seeing my progressing inebriation, he tried to give me the proper directions home.  I listened closely because I knew these details would be important later; but they were soon floating up in the wind with caution to keep them company.   Having been a bartender throughout university, I always bond quickly with the barman standing two feet behind the service area, what I like to refer to as my comfort zone.  So with all the excitement in my heart; I felt it was time to do some shots.  With no one to drink with, I can always rely on the bartender as an accomplice.  So it was Jagers to get it started right, and then another and another: I will stop there because you get the vibe of it.

It’s hard to pin point the exact moment in time when the buzz lifts you away from yourself; but it happened.  I was the drunkest man in Tamarindo that night, and just maybe Costa Rica.  Before long, and sooner then I could find a cute girl to rap drunken lyrics to, the lights came on and the night was finished.  It was time to go home, if I could find home.  I missed the pinnacle left turn that brings you back on the main drag.  As I stumbled forward, I soon found myself no man’s land.  It was dark and there was not a light to the guide the way.  I was walking into to Tico turf without any clue or idea where the path was leading.  Luckily, this realization hit me when a Tico rushed up to me trying to get me to taste some of his forbidden fruits.  I knew at that moment, I was in the wrong place, at the wrong time, in the wrong state of mind.  I tried to quickly wave him away without revealing my Gringo accent.  My only hope was to retrace my steps and get back to Babylon in a hurry.  I found the bar and decided to take a cab back to the hostel.  The cabby, upon seeing my state of drunken despair and not being able to translate slurred gringo, didn’t know where I needed get to.  Bottle of milk, I slurred over and over.  La Botella de Leche was what I was actually trying to say, but all I could remember was the English translation.  I knew that walk to the bar was only 15 minutes at most, so when the ride started to take awhile, I got concerned.  Was I going to end up a statistic of what not to do on my very first night?  We finally came to a lit intersection where there seemed to be some people gathering.  I demanded he let me out of the cab; which he declined.  I gave him the sternest look possible and yelled to be let out.  Before the cab could come to a complete stop, I was half way out and rolling on the ground.  The huge gash in my leg didn’t bother me at the time, but it would be a nuisance for the rest of the trip.  I obviously got the attention of the crowd at the intersection.  I explained to them what was going on and a Good Samaritan immediate told the cabby to take me where I was going; and quit messing around.  He assured me the cabby would get me home, so I got back in the cab for another go at it.  Two minutes and 12 American dollars later (any ride in Tamarindo is only 2 dollars), I was home sweet home.  I was Bleeding and incoherent; but home none the less. Thankfully, I was not a statistic of what not to do.

When I awoke in the morning trying to piece together the night; I was a little ashamed at my behavior.  Then I laughed it off as another learning experience while dressing my wounds.  If I can impart anything from this experience it’s the following.  Number 1#, get the business card of the place you’re staying at.  A rule I learned the hard way roaming aimlessly around the street of Nice at 5 a.m. in the morning.  Rule #2, always try to go out with a drunken buddy, to inebriated minds is better then one.  Rule #3, wait until you know the lay of the land before going harder then you wanted at the night clubs or bars.  Rule #4, when in doubt, look for and trust in the Good Samaritan, there everywhere and I consider myself to be one of them.  Cheers and Pura Vida forever. 

tw12

 

 

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